The New York Times recently published, “Beyond Porridge and Boiled Mutton: A Taste of London”, in praise of four London restaurants. Travel writer Robert Draper, who had rekindled a relationship with the city after a 10-year hiatus, was pleasantly surprised by the evaporation of a once “drab baseline” and “sallow and predictable dining experience”, and applauded our “recent flowering as a culinary destination”.
Let’s talk about this. London’s emergence as a restaurant destination is not especially recent (“flowering” suggests we are at training-bra stage), so why do many, often Americans, continue to peddle such a dim view of British food? As the late US food writer Laurie Colwin put it in English Food, an essay in 1992’s Home Cooking, her compatriots are “apt to sneer and tell you that it is impossible to get a decent meal in the British Isles and that the English know nothing about cooking.”
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