Food freestyling: how lateral cooking can turn soda bread into scones

Niki Segnit’s new book explores the fundamental recipe principles behind everything from noodles to flatbread. One writer is dazzled

A few years ago, I interviewed Primal Scream and received a crash course in full-blown musical obsession. It culminated in a moment where frontman Bobby Gillespie took a deep gulp of air and hurtled through the tracklisting of the Rolling Stones’ Sticky Fingers LP, pointing out every influence, lyrical steal, arrangement and piece of trivia that went with it, while I sat there trying to find space in my brain to take it all in.

I mention this because food author Niki Segnit seems to be the Gillespie’s culinary equivalent. Get her started on the humble flatbread and she will soon start explaining the way it links up with other breads – the Sri Lankan pol roti, say, or Irish soda bread – and before you know it, we are off. Did you know that Irish soda bread is basically the same thing as a scone, and also the cobbler topping of a pie or a stew? And that a few tweaks somewhere along the way can turn this into pizza dough? Or that pizza dough cooked in a slightly different way will make bagels? And actually, if you change the flour for that original flatbread, then you can make Japanese buckwheat noodles – just boil them in green tea and serve with sesame seeds and soy.

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