Published: November 02, 2018
Bodysurfing, loved since childhood, was no longer possible. The path to recovery was slow and painful - but worth it
All I can do is keep my eyes shut and hold my body straight as sea water crashes and roars around me.
I’m bodysurfing with my partner, Gem, at a small beach on Australia’s east coast. My technique isn’t great, and I tumble into the shallows. Shakily, I get up, and through stinging eyes catch sight of Gem, still riding the wave, her blue wet suit glinting in the sun, and pinkish-white feet drifting sideways in the water. On and on she goes, graceful, almost weightless, the ocean seemingly at her command.
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