Trout tartare, turkey, pumpkin, quince pies, dishes that balance old flavours and fresh ideas for the year’s most anticipated feast
Some of the rituals of Christmas are, for me, unshakable. The tree with its skeins of ivy and hand-painted decorations, the Kilner jars of marsala-marinated figs and apricots in the cupboard, the ribbon-decked gifts for friends and loved ones and, of course, The Feast. There must be mistletoe hanging from the doorway and holly in the hall, but I do believe Christmas moves on and many of us seek a trimmer yuletide without the gluttony and glitter of the past. What I would like is a Christmas that retains its spirit of bonhomie, thanksgiving and plenty, yet feels more in keeping with modern living. (Had things not moved on, we would still be making our mince pies with mutton and offal and drinking porter.)
I will always play Silent Night and While Shepherds Watched as I make the mince pies, despite being not remotely religious, just as I will always offer a slice of snow-scene Christmas cake to all-comers, but I am happy to tweak the food of tradition to suit a contemporary palate. A fresh, bright-tasting starter in place of a heavy soup, for instance; a smaller, more user-friendly way with the roast; a dessert that is more appropriate after a large dinner and a cake that is lighter and less sweet than the traditional. The age-old ingredients need to be present, otherwise we risk Christmas losing its soul, but they have moved on towards a less heavy feast.
Continue reading...from The Guardian https://ift.tt/2S21pWm
via
0 Comments