In the latest of our exclusive series, the Sydney-turned-New York cook updates a family favourite with big-hearted flavour
Green beans were regulars on our childhood dining table. To me, they symbolise my mother’s commitment to preparing food exactly right. She never cut corners when it came to cooking – one of my indelible memories was her perched at the kitchen bench with two huge colanders and several smaller bowls around her, as she topped, tailed and sorted her beans. It was one of her rituals.
My mother cooked beans to perfection – vibrantly green, with wok-infused smokiness and an unmistakable crunch that signified that her beans were cooked, exactly right. She served her beans stir-fried, usually with a crushed side of garlic which she discarded before eating, and often with a robust, umami-rich flavour like black bean sauce. Beans really were a staple vegetable on our table – inoffensive, dependable and adaptable to the other dishes served.
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