Crumbly crusts add the perfect topping to the juiciest fillings
As much as I like a pastry-topped pie, I also like a crisper, lighter and more crumbly crust to contrast with a soft and creamy filling. Which is what happened this week when we set out to make chicken and tarragon pie. There was bread to use up, as there so often is. So the bread went into the food processor to become soft, fresh crumbs and the butter we could have used to turn crumbs into crust was replaced with the golden, roasted skin from the chicken, cooked crisp and then finely chopped. The filling, protected by the layer of savoury crumbs, was a mixture of roast chicken, tarragon and cream. There were smiles all round.
There was a sweet crumble, too. Particularly juicy fruit often does better with a single crust. A bottom layer of pastry is rarely anything but soggy when your filling is plums or damsons, fruit that seems to produce gallons of sweet-sour purple juice.
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