A wary reopening for winery restaurant as fine dining withers on the vine

‘We don’t want to rush it,’ says John Mitchell of the acclaimed Montalto on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula

They walk in, single file, a good distance apart, dressed in tailored Melbourne black. They sit down at tables, giggling a little at the novelty of it. The view is the same as it ever was at Montalto, one of the best-known restaurants and wineries on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. Lime-green grass, vines naked for the winter, the thin sun basking everything in soft beauty.

John Mitchell watches the first lunch sitting of the day, on the first weekend his restaurant has opened since March. It’s offering lunch only on weekends for now: three sessions at 11am, 12.45 and 2pm. You have to book and there’s a set menu for $49.

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